LEXINGTON, Ky.—Last Saturday’s soft opening dinner at Coba Cocina delivered on the promises its three owners gave me months ago during interviews for another story. All three gushed, saying it “is a restaurant like nothing you’ve ever seen, not even in pictures.”
They were right. It’s easily one of the most beautiful eateries on this side of the Mississippi, and it would make a stir even in jaded Los Angeles.
The stunning new build set adjacent to the city’s Idle Hour shopping center employs lighted water features that change from blue to red to green and marble bar tops lighted from below to a ghostly pearlescent glow.